You leave Campuac behind as the village is only just waking up. The path takes you straight into the hills, past meadows and through stretches of woodland. The rhythm comes naturally.
The climbing is manageable, the descent less so: more than 700 metres down, and you’ll feel it mostly in your knees. You’ll be on the go for almost 7 hours. This is not a day for rushing, but a day for placing your feet with care.
The last stretch drops steeply, until the rooftops of Conques suddenly appear below you. The village clings to the hillside, with the abbey church of Sainte-Foy at its heart. Below you, the grey roofs lie between the wooded slopes.