Santa Marta de Penaguião slips quietly behind you: the last houses, a few vines along the road, and then it begins. Down, up, down again. That’s how it goes all morning.
The highest point stays low, but don’t be fooled. You climb a good 800 metres, in short, steep stretches that keep coming back. It adds up. Allow a good six hours and take the time for a break along the way.
After the quiet paths, it gradually gets busier and you walk into Vila Real. Take one last look back before you plunge into the city. The vines lie in rows across the hillsides, terrace after terrace.