Today is all about Portela do Homem. That’s where you cross the border from Portugal into Spain. It feels a little special: new signs, a different language and a clock that jumps forward an hour.
Otherwise, it’s an easy stage. You climb gently into the hills and then descend far more than you climb. Allow around six hours of walking, with time for a stop. Just after the border, things get ancient. Roman milestones line the road and the remains of Roman baths lie nearby. There was already a route here centuries ago. Then comes the long descent. When you walk into Lobios, off comes the rucksack and you go looking for a terrace and something cold to drink.