Portomarín is one of Galicia’s strangest and most memorable towns: an entire settlement dismantled and reconstructed on higher ground when the Belesar reservoir flooded the valley in the 1960s. Today it’s a key stop on the Camino de Santiago, a place where pilgrims, fishermen and day-trippers share a compact old quarter perched above the still waters of the Miño. It suits travellers who want authentic rural Galicia rather than a polished resort, with real history, real quiet, and real river views.

A Town Moved Stone by Stone

When the Franco-era Belesar dam was built on the Miño River in the 1960s, the original Portomarín was slated to disappear under the new reservoir. Rather than lose it entirely, engineers numbered and dismantled the town’s most important buildings, including the fortress-like Romanesque Church of San Nicolás, and rebuilt them on the hilltop above. On dry summers, when reservoir levels drop, the ruins of the old town and its submerged bridge sometimes reappear, drawing curious visitors to the water’s edge.

What to Do in Portomarín

The Church of San Nicolás, with its rose window and battlement-like walls, doubles as the town’s main landmark and is worth climbing for the views over the reservoir. Walk across the modern bridge for photos of the water and surrounding hills, or head down to the small beach area on the Miño for a swim in summer. Most visitors also spend an evening in the arcaded main square, where cafés and pilgrim menus spill out under the stone porticoes that were salvaged from the original town.

Who Portomarín Suits

This is a destination for walkers, slow travellers and anyone drawn to unusual history rather than beach resorts or nightlife. Camino de Santiago hikers pass through as a natural overnight stop, but it also works as a quiet weekend base for couples or small groups exploring rural Galicia by car. Families looking for water activities can use the reservoir’s calm shoreline, though facilities stay simple and low-key rather than built for mass tourism.

Getting to Portomarín

The nearest airport is Santiago de Compostela, roughly 90 minutes away by car, with Lugo and A Coruña also within reach for those flying into northern Spain. Regular buses connect Portomarín with Lugo and Sarria, the latter a popular Camino starting point, though a rental car gives the most flexibility for exploring the surrounding countryside. There’s no train station in town, so most travellers arrive either on foot along the Camino or by road.

Combining Portomarín with the Rest of Galicia

Sarria, one of the most popular starting points for the final stretch of the Camino Francés, lies less than a day’s walk away and pairs naturally with a Portomarín stop. The Ribeira Sacra, with its terraced vineyards and river canyons along the Sil and Miño, is a short drive south and rewards visitors with wine tastings and boat trips. Lugo, with its intact Roman walls, makes an easy add-on for history lovers, while Santiago de Compostela remains the natural final destination for anyone continuing the pilgrimage route.

Food, Festivals and Climate

Expect hearty Galician staples here: pulpo a la gallega, empanada and caldo gallego feature on most pilgrim menus, often washed down with a young Ribeiro wine from nearby vineyards. Portomarín’s local festival, in late August, centres on the Church of San Nicolás and brings processions, live music and communal meals to the main square. Spring and autumn bring mild, green, occasionally rainy weather ideal for walking; summers are warm but rarely stifling, while winters turn cold and damp, with the reservoir often shrouded in mist.