You leave Negreira behind in the stillness of early morning. The last houses slip past, then forest paths and country lanes take over. The start is gentle, but it doesn’t last. After that, the route climbs, drops and climbs again. You’ll walk through woodland, past meadows and through hamlets where the cockerels are about all you hear.
It’s a long day. You’re on your feet for over 8 hours, with more than 600 metres of climbing. That adds up, especially in your legs. Lago comes as a relief: small, rural, and time to take your boots off. Bring plenty of food and water, and give yourself a few proper breaks along the way.