The landscape opens up. Fields of grain, gentle hills and a big sky, with the outline of the Montaña Palentina on the horizon. Trees are scarce, but the views are endless. After the green Cantabrian mountains, this feels like another world.
This is one of the easier days on the Besaya. You walk for a little over five hours, with hardly any climbing or descending, and the paths are easy underfoot. That leaves room to look around and chat, or simply to stay quiet. You walk into Herrera de Pisuerga, a town on the river Pisuerga, which gives it its name. You’ll arrive sometime in the afternoon. That leaves time for an unhurried bit of laundry and a drink on a terrace before you carry on tomorrow.