Behind you, the old city walls of Ciudad Rodrigo glow gold for a little while longer in the morning light. Then the open countryside closes in around you: meadows, stone walls and the occasional oak tree that promises shade and not much more.
Above all, it’s long. At around 30 kilometres and a good 8 hours of walking, you need to pace yourself. The climbs aren’t extreme, but they keep coming and they add up. Eat on time and take more breaks than you think you need.
Aldea del Obispo is a small village at the end of the day. Boots off, feet up. Walk at your own pace; the village isn’t going anywhere.