The mist hangs low between the granite boulders as you leave Castro Laboreiro behind. The landscape is bare and sweeping. Mostly you hear the wind and, somewhere in the distance, a cowbell.
The first part is high and exposed. Along the way you walk out of Portugal and into Spain. Put your watch forward an hour straight away, or your planning will go awry. After that it’s mostly downhill, more than 1300 metres in total. That’s hard on your knees, especially towards the end. In Cortegada, a public pilgrim albergue awaits. Take the descent slowly and you’ll arrive with good legs.