By the time you walk into Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat, your legs will feel every metre of those almost 30 kilometres. There was no single big climb today. Instead, it was a long series of short ups and downs. Just when you think you’ve found your rhythm, the slope changes. The highest point is modest, but you only realise that afterwards.
You’re on the move for around 9 hours, so the afternoon really takes its toll. Woods, pasture and small villages follow one another. Overall you descend slightly more than you climb, and your knees will let you know. Then the town appears, with the Romanesque church rising above the rooftops. Rucksack off, boots off, and a cold drink on a terrace.