A cow watches you go by, chewing, from behind a wall of loose stones. There’s not much other traffic for now. You’re walking up onto the Aubrac, and the landscape opens out with every kilometre. Trees become scarce, and the sky gets bigger.
At around 27 kilometres it’s a long day, and it takes you almost eight hours. Even so, it’s not a day to fight. The climb is gradual, along grassy paths and past granite, and you’re often out on open plateau. Then the weather is what matters most: in wind and mist it suddenly feels rough and bare. At the end the road drops down to Nasbinals, a sturdy granite village set in the middle of the pastures. You’ll see the houses for a while before you get there. Take your time, the village isn’t going anywhere.