The scent of eucalyptus still hangs in the cool morning air as you walk out of Albergaria-a-Velha. The path winds through forest and past fields, over asphalt and sand. Always a bit uphill, then down again.
It’s a long day: around 28 kilometres, a good 8 hours on your feet. No single climb is dramatic, but together they really add up. You’ll feel it in your thighs especially in the second half. The tiredness comes from the constant up and down, not from the altitude. São João da Madeira is a no-nonsense town with an industrial face. It’s no fairytale village, but it is a place to take your boots off. So start early and leave your afternoon free.