This is a day you’ll feel in your legs. You climb almost 700 metres, but not all in one go. It’s a steady effort, and you soon settle into a rhythm. Your mind goes quiet and your steps even out. Up top, at around 800 metres, it feels open and peaceful around you. Then comes the descent, and you’ll feel that mostly in your knees.
Take your time. You’ll be on the move for well over 6 hours, not counting breaks. When the last few metres are behind you, you arrive in Soutelo de Montes. There’s a public pilgrim albergue here. Rucksack off, boots off, and feet up on a bench for a moment.