The Cruz de Ferro defines this day. Shortly after Foncebadón, you reach the iron cross, close to the highest point of the Camino Francés. Many pilgrims leave a stone here that they have carried from home. Pause for a moment of quiet, then carry on.
Then the descent begins, and it seems almost endless: nearly 1,200 metres downhill. You follow stony paths, pass heathland and walk through mountain villages. Your lungs get a rest, but your knees don’t. The landscape grows greener and warmer as you go. In Ponferrada, the Templar castle awaits. Here you can also branch off onto the Camino de Invierno. Both routes lead to Santiago. Behind you, the mountains remain on the horizon like a blue ridge.