You leave Brañosera behind on a quiet mountainside, with cool morning air and little to hold you back. The first stretch eases away gently. Enjoy the calm, because the mountain still has plans.
Halfway through comes the real challenge: almost 500 metres up in five kilometres. It’s steep, so take it at your own pace. At more than 1600 metres, the highest point of the day, you look far out over the Palentine mountains. Then comes a long descent, and you’ll feel it in your knees. The village of San Felices de Castillería appears, small and peaceful. You shuffle in on tired legs, and that’s exactly as it should be. Go on, pilgrim, the view more than repays the climb.