It starts easy, almost too easy. You walk out of Logroño through the park and your legs seem to carry you along on their own. Only later do you realise this is a long day, almost 8 hours on the road.
All around you lies La Rioja. Rows of vines, red earth, very little shade. The path climbs and descends in short stretches, without a single real mountain among them. That is exactly what wears you down. Your mind goes quiet, while your calves start to complain.
The last stretch towards Nájera really makes itself felt in your legs. Then you follow the river into the town, with a red rock face rising above the rooftops. Rucksack off, boots off, and a cold beer on a terrace.