At Melide, the Camino changes. The Primitivo joins your route here, and pilgrims from that route walk along with you from this point on. The path suddenly feels a little less like your own.
Until then, it’s still quiet. You walk out of Palas de Rei through woodland, past meadows and through small hamlets. The path keeps going up and down, and the descents ask just as much of your knees as the short climbs do of your legs. It’s more than 8 hours of walking, so keep your pace steady. Melide is known for its pulpo, a good reason to sit down for a while.
In Arzúa, the Camino del Norte joins as well. It’s lively here, and there is a public albergue. Put your rucksack down and put your feet up. You’ve earned it.