You leave Cervera de Pisuerga behind you while the mountains of the Montaña Palentina still lie in the morning shade. The first few kilometres pass easily. Don’t let that fool you.
This is the longest stage of the whole route: about 37 kilometres, and more than 10 hours on your feet. The road climbs and descends, and gives you little chance to really switch off. If you’d rather split the day in two, stay overnight in Santibáñez de la Peña.
You arrive in Guardo tired and content. Your first beer tastes like a reward. When you look back, the hills lie behind you in the late light, golden and still.