Cistierna is soon behind you. A few more streets, then the houses stop and you walk out into open country. It’s an average day: slightly more downhill than uphill, and an easy walk of about six hours.
At the Roman bridge of Mercadillo you have to choose which bank of the Esla to follow. On the left you pass through villages with bars, but there’s more asfalt underfoot. On the right it’s quieter and there’s shade, but no facilities. So take food and water with you. Whichever side you choose, you’ll end up in Gradefes. The Esla stays in view along the way, a slow ribbon between the fields.