This route is for anyone who loves silence. You’ll meet few pilgrims, and for long stretches you’ll have the countryside to yourself. At Zamora, the Vía de la Plata turns west. You walk through Portugal and rejoin the Camino Sanabrés in Galicia. It is a recognised historic Camino, but not a busy one.
First you cross the wide-open regions of Alba and Aliste, heading for Alcañices and the border. The first days are long: from Campillo to Fonfría it’s a good 32 kilometres. Next comes Trás-os-Montes, with Quintanilha and Bragança and its medieval citadel. Around Vinhais the landscape turns mountainous. The climb towards Segirei and Verín is short and steep, and only at Verín are you back in Spain.
Walk it in April and May, or in September and October. Then it’s manageable to be outdoors all day here. At Laza you join the Sanabrés, and carry on to Ourense and Santiago. You need to be in good shape, but you get plenty of space and peace in return.