The day revolves around the coastline: up to the cliff edge, then back down to a little sandy beach, again and again. These aren’t big mountains, but the ups and downs never let up. As a result, you’ll be walking for over six hours, which is more than the distance suggests.
The path is narrow and sandy, and at times you sink in over your ankles. At Cabo Sardão, storks nest on the rocks out in the sea, a remarkable sight. There’s hardly any shade, just wind and salt on your lips. At the end, tired but content, you descend to Zambujeira do Mar: white houses above the cliff, a beach below and a terrace where you can finally take off your shoes.