San Juan de Ortega is a peaceful spot: an old monastery, a church, a handful of houses and forest all around. Rucksack off, boots off. This was a good day.
Looking back, the stage has two faces. First come easy kilometres past small villages, where you soon find your rhythm. After Villafranca Montes de Oca the path climbs into the forest of the Montes de Oca. The track is wide and quiet, and you climb steadily to well over 1100 metres. It’s almost seven hours of walking, with more ascent than descent. The last stretch slopes gently down into the village. Pop into the church, even if you’re tired. It’s worth it here. Enjoy the silence, pilgrim.