Among the grass and wind lie the ruins of an old pilgrim hospital. There’s not much more than a few stones left, but you’ll understand at once why it was needed up here. This is the Hospitales route: high over the mountains, about 960 metres of climbing, with a highest point of around 1200 metres. For long stretches there is no village, no water and no bar. So take plenty of water and food with you.
In fog, snow or bad weather, don’t walk over the mountains but take the route via Pola de Allande. This route is about 29 kilometres, with villages and a place to sleep along the way. At Montefurado the two routes join up again. In Berducedo a public pilgrim albergue awaits you. Take a good look at the sky before you set off and walk at your own pace. The mountains aren’t going anywhere.