Eucalyptus woods, oak-lined lanes, pastures and little villages with stone barns: the Galician countryside holds on to you until the very end. The path rises and falls gently, with a few short climbs to keep your legs awake a little longer. It’s about 19 kilometres, which is very doable. Even so, you’ll find yourself slowing down more than you need to.
Then the houses become closer together and the woods give way to streets. You walk into Santiago and straight through the old town to the Obradoiro, where the cathedral suddenly stands in front of you. Many pilgrims sit down on the stones here and say nothing for a while. Book your bed in advance if you’re walking between May and September, even if you haven’t booked anywhere until now. Behind you lie the green hills, with the eucalyptus trees swaying gently in the wind.