The Primitivo is the oldest Camino, and you can feel it. According to tradition, King Alfonso II walked this way from Oviedo to the tomb of St James as early as the ninth century. It is a mountain route through Asturias and Galicia, with plenty of climbing and descending and very few flat stretches. This route is for walkers who love a challenge and enjoy walking in silence.
From Oviedo, you are into the hills quickly. After Salas, one steep climb follows another. The stage from Borres to Berducedo is the toughest: more than 400 metres of ascent within five kilometres. After that you walk into Galicia, with more greenery, small villages and long stretches where you won’t see a soul. In Lugo you will find the Roman city wall, and you can walk all the way round it. It’s a lovely moment to catch your breath.
In Melide, the Primitivo joins the Camino Francés. You walk the last three stages to Santiago together with everyone else. After all that peace and quiet, it takes a bit of getting used to: it gets a lot busier.
August is the best month for this route. From November to March it is cool and often rainy. That makes the climbing in the mountains a good deal harder.